Which is better, hyaluronic acid or collagen for our skin? In the ever-evolving landscape of skincare, the pursuit of radiant and youthful skin has led to a surge in interest surrounding key players in skin health—hyaluronic acid and collagen. As pillars of the dermal matrix, both substances contribute significantly to the skin's structural integrity, moisture retention, and overall appearance. However, the unique attributes of hyaluronic acid and collagen prompt an intriguing exploration into their individual contributions to skin benefits.

One is not more significant than the other as they are both elemental building structures of the skin, the body’s largest organ. The extracellular matrix molecules of the skin form a highly organized structure, comprising mainly of hyaluronic acid as the predominant component, followed by proteoglycans, growth factors and structural proteins such as collagens¹. One of the main functions of the skin is protection. Skin performs as a waterproof, shielding barrier, defending the body against extremes of moisture and temperature, damaging sunlight with UV rays, and toxic chemical substances. Human skin aging is a complex biological process that is not yet fully understood to date. It is however well established that the gradual decrease in production of sex hormones starting in the mid-twenties that consequences the collagen degradation, dryness, loss of elasticity, epidermal atrophy, and skin wrinkling².

Radiant and youthful looking skin is governed highly by how moisturized and elastic the skin is. Hyaluronic acid is an essential component of the skin because of its ability to promote collagen synthesis. Collagen firms the skin to promote elasticity and prevents wrinkling of the skin while hyaluronic acid nourishes and hydrates the collagen. This article will review further on the functions of hyaluronic acid in promoting skin moisture, and collagen in supporting skin elasticity, in slowing down the aging signs of our skin.

 

Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic acid (HA), a naturally occurring clear gooey substance, is found most abundantly in the skin, accounting for 50% of the total body HA³, followed by connective tissues and eyes. HA plays a pivotal role in maintaining skin health with profound effects on hydration, elasticity, and aging prevention. Mechanistically, hyaluronic acid acts as a potent humectant, attracting and retaining water molecules within the skin's extracellular matrix. The key molecule involved in skin moisture is hyaluronan, a glycosaminoglycan with a special capacity to bind and lock-in water molecules⁴, acting like a magnet for skin moisture. Scientific evidence underscores its ability to enhance skin hydration by promoting optimal water balance, leading to a visibly plump and well-moisturized complexion. Furthermore, hyaluronic acid contributes to skin elasticity by maintaining tissue turgor and suppleness.

In terms of aging prevention, its unique molecular structure and water-binding capacity aid in filling fine lines and wrinkles, providing a smoother appearance. In aging skin, the HA content of the skin decreases with a diminished ability to bind water and keep the skin hydrated⁵. The practical implications of hyaluronic acid in skincare are evident through a myriad of formulations, including serums, creams, and injectables, designed to boost hydration and address aging concerns. It was found in a clinical study conducted in Japan, that ingested high dose HA (120 to 240mg daily) over at least one month increased skin moisture and improved treatment outcomes for patients with clinically diagnosed dry skin⁶. Ingested HA contributes to the increased production of HA and promotes cell proliferation in fibroblasts⁶, thereby increasing collagen production and strengthening the skin extracellular matrix structure.

 

Collagen

Collagen, the structural foundation of the skin, plays a multifaceted role in maintaining skin health with implications for hydration, elasticity, and aging prevention. It is the most abundant protein form found in the body that exists in the tendons, fat, and ligaments, among other places. Mechanistically, collagen fibers create a supportive framework, ensuring the skin's firmness and resilience in resisting stretching, thus preventing the formation of wrinkles, and sagging skin. Scientific evidence indicates that collagen actively contributes to skin hydration by forming a mesh-like structure that retains water molecules, imparting a plump and supple appearance. Moreover, collagen fibers provide crucial tensile strength, enhancing skin elasticity and preventing sagging or wrinkles. As we age, the natural production of collagen diminishes, leading to visible signs of aging as a result of collagen matrix becomes fragmented and more loosely distributed, and simultaneously less new collagen is produced as the fibroblast function becomes impaired⁷. Existing collagen breaks down at a higher rate and new collagen regenerates slower than in a young person’s skin.

Stimulating collagen production through dietary means has shown promise in counteracting this decline. The practical implications are evident in the market's array of collagen-infused products, ranging from creams to supplements, all aiming to boost collagen levels and support skin health. By understanding the intricate mechanisms by which collagen influences skin attributes, individuals can make informed choices to address specific concerns and foster a resilient and youthful complexion.

 

Conclusion

In conclusion, the comparison of hyaluronic acid and collagen reveals that each ingredient plays a crucial and complementary role in promoting skin plumpness and combating signs of aging. Hyaluronic acid excels in its ability to attract and retain water, providing optimal hydration and a visibly plump appearance. On the other hand, collagen contributes to skin firmness and elasticity, addressing the structural aspects of aging. Rather than viewing one as superior to the other, it is evident that both hyaluronic acid and collagen are integral components of effective skincare. The synergistic effects of these ingredients offer a comprehensive approach to achieving a resilient and youthful complexion. Incorporating both hyaluronic acid and collagen into nutrition routines can maximize the benefits, addressing hydration, elasticity, and anti-aging concerns holistically. Collagen and hyaluronic acid work like two best friends serving to fight skin aging - collagen gives support and structure to the skin, while HA acts as humectant keeping the skin supple and hydrated. Ultimately, recognizing the importance of both ingredients highlights the nuanced nature of skincare, encouraging a well-balanced and tailored approach to maintain skin health and vitality.

 

 

References:

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2. Brincat MP. Hormone replacement therapy and the skin. Maturitas 2000; 35:107–117. 9 Makrantonaki E, Zouboulis CC. Androgens and aging of the skin. Curr Opin Endocrinol Diabetes Obes. 2009;16:240–5.
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5. Simpson RML, Meran S, Thomas D, Stephens P, Bowen T, Steadman R, Phillips A. Age-related changes in pericellular hyaluronan organization leads to impaired dermal fibroblast to myofibroblast differentiation. Am J Pathol. 2009 Nov;175(5):1915-28. doi: 10.2353/ajpath.2009.090045. Epub 2009 Oct 1.
6. Kawada C, Yoshida T, Yoshida H, Matsuoka R, Sakamoto W, Odanaka W, Sato T, Yamasaki T, Kanemitsu T, Masuda Y, Urushibata O. Ingested hyaluronan moisturizes dry skin. Nutr J. 2014 Jul 11;13:70. doi: 10.1186/1475-2891-13-70.
7. Wu M, Cronin K, Crane JS. Biochemistry, Collagen Synthesis. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2022 Jan-. https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK507709/